by Simon Schier

The best perfume for men? Recognize fragrance notes and fragrance families

Simply putting on any perfume is not enough! As a cultivated man, y...
Das Beste Parfum für Männer? Duftnoten und Duftfamilien erkennen

Simply putting on any perfume is not enough! As a cultivated man, you know which fragrances you are dealing with and why you are using them. This will make a double impression on your date: firstly, you are wearing the right scent and, secondly, you can shine with the knowledge that this article is about.

We have a little problem right at the beginning: it is actually difficult to talk about fragrances. How we perceive and describe them is highly subjective and varies from person to person. We often make do with character descriptions and call fragrances male, sporty or mysterious and seductive but these are only interpretations.tationen.

To make a good perfume for men like Thorium No. 90 or Krypton No. To be able to describe it more clearly, let's first take a look at the individual fragrance building blocks or components and then get to know the fragrance families.

The essence for the best men's perfumes: It has a head, a heart and a base

When we describe something as complex as a perfume, we want to perceive its individual components. It is important to understand that a perfume represents a triad and this consists of a top note, a heart note and a base note::

  1. Top note:We notice this first with perfume. It is the most intense note and at the same time the most fleeting one after a few minutes it is barely noticeable..
  2. Heart note:With a share of 50 to 80 percent, it makes the characterof a perfume and keeps its smell much longer than the top note.
  3. Base note:When the fragrance molecules of the perfume combine with the fragrance properties of the skin, we speak of the base note. It is highly individual, makes a perfume unique for every wearer and lasts for several hours.

Which fragrances do we look for and find with top, heart and base notes in perfumes for men?

Usually the top, heart and base notes each use different fragrance components to make an eau de parfum complex and attractive. The fragrance modules are odorous substances, some of which you are probably familiar with and which can be categorized as follows:

Blossoms:These include hyacinth, jasmine, lavender, lily of the valley, mimosa, neroli, osmanthus, violet and rose.

Fruit:For example, citrus-like scents such as bergamot, grapefruit, orange, lemon, lime, but also green apple, plum, coconut and berries: strawberry, blackberry, raspberry or blackcurrant.

Spices:Anise, ginger, cardamom, coriander, nutmeg, clove, allspice, rosemary, vanilla or cinnamon bark oil are often represented.

Barks and resins:Frankincense, myrrh, rosewood, sandalwood, cedarwood and juniper are known here, but there is also benzoin, siam, elemi, mastic, guaiac, copaiba, opopanax, balsam oil of Peru, styarx or balsam oil of tolu.

Leaves, grasses, mosses, berries, roots:Tree and oak moss, bay leaf, clary sage, patchouli, tobacco leaves, tonka bean, violet, vetiver, juniper berries and cypresses are some of the better-known representatives. But also malabar, citronella, galbanum, orris root and petitgrain.

Animal secretions:Musk is a classic representative of the category. But it also includes amber, castoreum and civet. Today, the fabrics can also be produced synthetically or without animals.

Gourmand notes:Chocolate, vanilla, caramel or sugar and cotton candy as well as honey, sweet milk and almonds belong to this.

How can fragrance notes best be described??

There are numerous approaches with which fragrances or fragrance families can be further systematized, but no standard. On the one hand, this is due to the fact that the classification of fragrances is subject to subjective judgments; On the other hand, however, with the unmanageable number of perfumes, the manufacturers each use a different vocabulary..

Among the many attempts at explanation, there is a very clear approach fromPerfume expert Michael Edwards: theFragrance Wheel. Similar to a color wheel, Edwards systematizes the various scent notes and at the same time shows how fluid the transitions are:

 Duftrad Herrenparfum

Edwards systematizes four main groups: floral, oriental, woody and fresh notes. It is interesting that this system makes the transitions between the individual groups comprehensible: woody notes move between oriental and fresh notes, but contrast with the floral notes.

The transitions between flowers, orient, wood and freshness can be easily understood through the sub-categories: dry woods, for example, lead to aromatic scents and citrus scents. Or orange blossom moves from the floral notes towards the oriental notes.

How do you classify your eau de parfum for men from sober?

Let's try it out and describe the three popular eau de sober from Berlin by sober:

Thorium No. 90

  • Top note: pink pepper, vetiver, citric notes
  • Heart note: grapefruit, labdanum, cedar
  • Base note: ginger, sandalwood, incense

The top note opens the composition with a fresh impression of aromatic and citrus fragrances thanks to the pink pepper, the citrus notes and the vetiver..

In the middle note, thorium No. 90 in the wooden, oriental area. This is due to the honey-like labdanum and the cedar. A mild impulse from grapefruit gives the heart note a fresh, fruity overtone.

Frankincense, ginger and sandalwood let the base note rest in the oriental, slightly woody fragrance notes.

In the overall composition, Thorium No. 90 an aromatic perfume. It describes its wearer as powerful, tart and masculine and at the same time stylish and elegant.


Krypton No. 36

  • Top note: cardamom and cedarwood notes
  • Heart note: lavender and bergamot
  • Base note: amber, caraway and vetiver

Above the top note, Krypton No. 36 woody-oriental and elegantly merges into an aromatic, citrus heart note through lavender and bargamot. The base note of amber, caraway and vetiver gives the fragrance a woody, oriental sound.

The essence of Krypton No. 36 is oriental-wood, the scent gets its freshness from the bergamot. The long-lasting men's eau de parfum is particularly suitable for men with a powerful, stylish and seductive core.


Mercury No. 80

Top note: grapefruit, maritime notes

Heart note: bay leaf, jasmine

Base note: guaiac wood, oak moss, patchouli, amber

Mercury No. 80 is an Eau de Parfum that conveys a fruity freshness with grapefruit and aqua and creates a subtle transition to the aromatic fragrances with laurel and jasmine in the heart note. In the base note, the perfume continues the transition: woody and mossy scents create a bridge to slightly oriental sounds through patchouli and ambergris.

We describe Mercury No. 80 as a fresh, woody fragrance: It accompanies dynamic and expressive men who are not only heroes of everyday life, but also of seduction.


Talking about scents remains purely subjective?

Yes and no. We can certainly agree that a scent like bergamot is citrus-like or lavender is aromatic. How the individual fragrance components interact and work in a perfume, everyone will have to judge for themselves. The same applies, of course, if you want to find the right eau de parfum for you.

Have fun testing & amp; #staysober

Simon

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